Age waits for nobody. My creaky joints need cajoling with painkillers and all the anti inflammatory foods I can wolf down. Consequently I am restricted to lower level trundles these days and this walk around Brotherswater is one of my favourites at any time of year.
Maybe 4km to 5km this walk offers superb views in all directions and immersion in the proximity of nature. Paths and tracks are easy and waymarked.
So put on your specs, relax in a chair and enjoy the journey as I guide you along step by step. Photos are taken from every season and my thoughts articulated without much editing! Then, should you feel adventurous, go out and give it a twirl, you will have zero regrets.
In the Beginning
Drive to any small lay-by just south of the Brotherswater Inn at Sykeside. Even in the height of holiday season you will often find a parking space. My favourite space is at Caudale Bridge where there is a gate leading directly onto the bridge, where you can take stock whilst looking at the rushing beck hurtling down the fell and under your feet to decide if you have remembered to put your sarnies in the backpack. If you are like me you may have forgotten to change into your walking boots! Go back pdq and fix things
Suitably pacified you can head off immediately into the rough pasture over the bridge, following what amounts to a sheep track. Angle gently up the slope until you come to a flattish area where there has been some kind of building in times of yore. Turn to the west and sigh because this view up Dovedale to Dove Crag and the bracken coated shoulder of High Hartsop Dodd is worth every penny of the entrance fee
High Hartsop Dodd – Dove Crag – Hart Crag from the Kirkstone Pass road
After soaking in the view turn your attention northwards where the thin path crosses a stream on a large flagstone, pausing for a moment to marvel at the pristine clean water tumbling over washed rocks and pebbles. Then walk through the gap in the wall. Once there you can admire the prospect with the Inn, Brotherswater and Place Fell taking centre stage. The lake looks more like a postage stamp from here yet within 30 minutes you could be on the shoreline.
Brotherswater Inn
As you descend the final field of the fell you will notice the Inn at the end of the path. This Inn holds myriad memories for me over the past 50 years. Sykeside camp site is just nearby and a place that I often used as a base camp many years ago. For such a mountainous area the site is unusually flat and well tended.
The door in the middle of the building used to be the main entrance (now behind the building with a large parking area). Going through that door for a pint after a long day on the fells was exhilarating. Almost always rammed full of climbers and walkers, 2 sheets to the wind and singing on top note. Swing Low Sweet Chariots got the walls vibrating. Worth noting that the air inside was dense with cigarette smoke and condensation trickled down the walls from the heat of folk packed together. Actually it may well have been spilled beer as it was traditional to douse each other with overfull pints in passing.
Nowadays the Inn does a good range of hearty meals, breakfast, lunch and dinner, with lots of outdoor seating and tables. I remember taking my children (4 of them) for Sunday lunch. Hard to believe that my youngest gained his PhD a few years ago and is an acclaimed author! Memories come flooding back every time I pass by the pub.
Onward …
Passing the pub (for now) follow the wall a few hundred yards to the first left turn down to Sykeside Campsite where the next section of path appears
Lots of paths like this have sprouted up over recent times to encourage walkers off the roads. It has to be said that traffic coming down from Kirkstone Pass drive at ridiculous speeds making it perilous to walk in the verges. This path travels alongside of the road in the edge of the fields and is fenced off to prevent livestock getting tangled up with delicate walkers.
The path is narrow, only wide enough for walkers to travel in single file, needing to politely step aside for others if necessary. Now is a good point in my verbiage to explain protocol and good etiquette for walkers.
Walking Protocol
Once you start walking be prepared to say Morning, Hello, Hi, Afternoon and smile at every person you meet. Unlike city streets people actually acknowledge each other on these trails. It isn’t uncommon to strike up a conversation with complete strangers, just because that is what you do.
If you see a grey haired old guy bumbling along with a stick say hello. It could be me!
Most folk are very polite and respect the area, they would be devastated to see you littering or failing to bag that dog muck. It feels like a homogeneous glob of humanity who are simply enjoying the outdoors without taking anything away except photos and memories
Back to the business at hand …
Progress along this section of the walk is pointedly different than the open fellside above the Inn. The path gently weaves around trees and small outcrops of rock, mostly dry underfoot with a few short muddy stretches. Don’t rush this part because the views behind toward Dove Crag are worth a few stops. You will also notice Hartsop Hall appearing across the valley.
The views ahead with glimpses of Place Fell are enticing. Compelling forward momentum here because Brotherswater is close.
The path swings up to the road then immediately dives down to the water, and this is where the real delight begins. Brotherswater is a shallow lake being fed to the south from swift mountain streams and exiting more sedately northwards to feed into Ullswater. The lake isn’t very big however it is hemmed in on the sides by some magnificent hanging woodland and the slopes of Hartsop above How and Hartsop Dodd. These relics of days before much of the Lake District was fell-cleared by the monasteries to provide rough grazing land for sheep are precious. Once we start to head home from Cow Bridge these woods will envelope you and you should hear lots of birdsong. If you are very lucky and have sharp eyes, you may find red squirrels scampering up and down the trees.
Brotherswater
So here it is, your first chance to stand beside the water. Albeit a bit muddy if the lake is high, it still needs a reflective stop to take it in. By now you may be tempted to break out the sarnies, my advice is wait a little while. There are 2 wonderful food stops coming up.
Shuffle a bit closer to the blue patch and breathe in deeply.
Pop your eyes back in the sockets and we’re off again. The water is always close by and the views irrepressible, so pause often, we never hurry on my walks.
There is a very natural feel to this next short section. The path wanders over tree roots and dips down to the water in places, nothing seems out of place here despite the road being a few yards above and to the right. Once your mind is engaged in observation of the surroundings the road noise doesn’t factor, and there is a sense of unification as your soul blends with this exquisite place.
Numerous waterfowl live on the lake, when you see a diving duck notice where it dips down and see if you can spot where it re-emerges. Often quite a distance away
On my most recent walk there I noticed some weird orange buoys drifting along near the far shore. It seemed odd because there was little wind that day. All was revealed on the other side when I met 4 ladies walking down the trail toward me wearing massive sack like overcoats. They had been wild swimming and towed their gear in 2 orange floats as they progressed upstream. Can’t say that I felt tempted to dip my toes in the water, let alone swim. I had a brief chat with them and they reckoned the water was warm and believed everyone should try it …erm … nah
Lunch and Contemplation
As we come out of the wooded area a longish beach appears. Stepping onto the beach it is mandatory to pick up a pebble and throw it in the water, see if you can get a photo of the splash. I have tried this many times over the years and often fail.
This is my fave spot to have a sit down. The massive roots on the tree to the left of the photo are smooth and a perfect height. Also a very good spot to contemplate the view, and consider what a magnificent place the Lake District is. National Parks in many countries around the world have an entrance fee. Because ours is a lived in area it is open to anyone who can get here and considering how vast the number of visitors are each day, it remains, in many areas, as it always has been before the Victorians became adventurous and adopted charabanc coach trips, eventually charabanc fever escalated becoming overstuffed vehicles that arrived in the Lakes. I heard that the visitors had to disembark at the bottom of Kirkstone and walk to the top. The charabanc had to reverse up the hill! For me it is home and has been for much of my adult life. It is a privilege to live and work here and I never take it for granted.
Packing away our lunch it’s time for a dose of reality. Back beside the road for a short distance. Out of the last gate there is a sealed footpath that leads past the turning for Hartsop hamlet and down to Cow Bridge.
Another nostalgia hit at Cow Bridge. Father and his friend Pete rebuilt this wall that runs between the car park and road. I remember him saying how difficult it was because there were nothing but round boulders. I have to say it’s a remarkably neat and tidy dry stone wall that should last for many years to come. Well done Pops!
The car park is now a pay and display. Back in the day before parking fees were introduced I always enjoyed putting a few quid into the honesty box at the entrance.
Over the bridge, stopping to look down into the crystal clear water, it’s time to head home as it were. Before going through the gate have a read of the info boards and signs. Even a quick sit on the ‘made to last’ Victoria Regina 1897 metal bench is permissible.
Trending South like a flock of geese …
It’s immediately clear that we are now on a different type of walking track. None of the skimpy sheep trods and swerving around trees, this is unadulterated farm lane material. Consequently you can walk along with your eyes wide open because you are very unlikely to be tripped up by a tree root. Nevertheless as the walk goes on there is a steep banking down to the lake, so don’t slip there unless you have packed your swimming trunks.
The embryonic Goldrill Beck slithers quietly northwards on your left. For some quirky reason (maybe I think of the north as being up in the UK) it seems bizarre to have streams flowing northwards. Here you are likely to see numerous waterfowl splashing around, the ubiquitous mallards are always entertaining.
A number of years ago whilst ambling up this trail I noticed a grebe or merganser (can’t remember which species) towing some weed behind it as it swam upstream. Puzzled me how it was still moving effortlessly with such a handicap. The closer it swam the more bizarre things appeared. The bird then paddled across to the far bank as a few small clumps fell off the trailing weed. Then to defy logic the clumps began to swim … chicks!! Of course I was thrilled to see it wasn’t a mass of tangled weed. The chicks proceeded to pop up into the feathers of the parent bird and travelled majestically upstream like a load tourists on a lake steamer. Until … without so much as a peep, the parent dived, obviously spotting a tasty morsel underwater. All the chicks remained on the surface and scampered off to the far river bank to wait until the parent reappeared to load them up again.
Brock Crag over Goldrill Beck
Brock Crag – The Knott (distant) – Gray Crag – Hartsop Dodd over Goldrill Beck
At this point you can slip down to a long pebbly beach. Standing on the stone, front of pic, offers excellent views across the river to the superb reed beds and the hills towering over Hartsop. The bracken in mid autumn with the still verdant green fields creating a patchwork quilt.
Also looking ahead southwards toward Kirkstone invites an exploration. It needs to be stated here that once you get to the end of this beach it is better to retrace your steps to this rock in the water and get back on the main track. The shoreline at the end of the beach becomes very tangled and difficult to navigate for some distance.
Back on Track – Sauntering down the side of the lake is perfect. The deciduous woodland forms an intricate branch tunnel, glimpses of the lake and surrounding mountains are fascinating. The steep slopes on your right encompass a full range of native trees, ferns and mosses. Soak it all in and listen out for flocks of geese migrating south just before winter kicks in. Luck be on your side if they decide to zoom down and skid across the surface of the water for a pit stop on their journey.
As you emerge from the trees the scene becomes more open with fields ahead and the perfect picnic spot beside the water sitting on springy turf. If you have delayed nosh gratification this is the place to fuel up and rest for a while.
Final Lap
Wandering off toward Hartsop Hall we find drystone field walls and plenty of sheep grazing peacefully. At the very tip of Brotherswater a spit of land (possibly man made) always has waterfowl resting and preening. A pair of resident swans, mallards and cormorants were in residence in this photo, far enough away to feel secure from the visitors who have begun appearing in numbers as we get closer to the campsite.
Through the final gate we approach the farm which is circumnavigated before we head out on a sealed farm road to Sykeside camping area.
Some new mountains are showing as we come to the Hall. From this low angle the hills look mightily impressive. The valley floor is flat and the ridges start without much preamble. We are also seeing more people wandering around.
Middle Dodd – High Hartsop Dodd
Hartsop Hall is a superb old building owned by the National Trust. Constructed in the 16th century and Grade 1 listed. It’s a working farm with a large flock of mostly Swaledale sheep ranging around the 3,000 acres. I always enjoy being here because there are several options for walkers. Northwards to Brotherswater you have just travelled around. West to Dovedale, which I consider to be the most magical valley and another path going south over to Caiston Beck before branching up Kirkstone Beck then up to Kirkstone Pass.
Kirkstone Beck and Middle Dodd
Hartsop Hall
Finally we move through the campsite, loads of folk enjoying themselves, happy smiling faces. You can’t blame anyone for wanting to stay on this site, it’s ideal for exploring the area. If you do stay there look up to the towering slopes of Hartsop Dodd to the east early in the morning. I have seen red deer grazing there many times.
A few hundred metres more past the shop/reception building we trundle up the slope to the Brotherswater Inn. Difficult not to stop there for a cold drink before scooting back through the rough fields on the east side of the Kirkstone Pass road to your vehicle.
That folks is it. I have certainly enjoyed writing this blog, and my hope is that you have enjoyed reading. Keep smiling, see you again very soon. John
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